North Devon food for feast

Martin Dorey is a writer, surfer and North Devon resident. He moved here from London in 1995 to search for waves and a quiet surfer's existence but ended up finding much more than that - a love for food that just keeps on growing. His book, The Camper Van Cookbook, which was released in 2010, has inspired many an outdoor feast. It also provided the inspiration for One Man and his Camper Van, a BBC2 TV programme that saw Martin travel the length and breadth of Britain living, eating and cooking in his beloved camper van.

I've always enjoyed food but it wasn't until I moved to North Devon that I discovered just how much better it can taste when it's accompanied by an adventure. It doesn't even have to be a muddy booted kind of adventure, just something a little different from the every day. For me, it was discovering huge mussels growing on the rocks on my favourite surfing beaches. For a former townie like me, moving here and discovering my favourite food growing locally was a revelation of the highest order. It was no time before I began to work out that there's a lot of excellent stuff out there in the fields, swimming in the sea, on the beaches and in the hedgerows of where we live. And there are a lot of local fishermen, growers, farmers and producers out there doing their best to bring it to us and share it with us.

Let me explain. I spent a day with my local fishmonger recently. He's a colourful local character with plenty of chat and charm. If you go to a farmers' market in North Devon you'll see him there, with his barrow and his smile and an awful lot of knowledge about what's fresh, what's available and what's good to eat. If you hang about to listen he'll suggest a way to cook it that may surprise you. Needless to say, on the day I spent with him, he had me selling the catch, chatting with the customers and filleting mountains of fresh local fish. I can recommend it to anyone. Then again, he can't take us all with him wherever he goes. But it's worth ten minutes out of your day to have a chat. You don't get that very often.

The point in this is that there are people here in north Devon who can inspire you to do new things with the food they catch, grow and harvest. And the good news is that my fishmonger friend is not alone. Our local butcher is always up for a chat and you can pick up a few odd snippets of helpful information along the way. He's the latest in a long line of well informed country people who really care about what they do and I salute him for his knowledge. The shop, in Parkham, might be out of the way but it's worth the trip. For others, just ask the locals where they buy their stuff - search it out and you shall find it.

Thankfully, these growers, farmers, butcher and fishmongers are the people who also provide fresh ingredients to many of North Devon's best bars and restaurants. It would be an odyssey to visit them all but I've been to enough of them to know that it can pay dividends to ask for the locally grown, sustainably caught or the seasonal. In a few places you don't even have to ask.

At many of North Devon's bars and restaurants you might not find the same kind of haute cuisine but you'll certainly get to fill up on great food in a friendly atmosphere. Places like The Wayfarer in Instow are always a good bet in the summer. Walk straight off the beach and into a cool pint with some fresh local fish. Just make sure you shake the sand from your shoes before to go in. If you want a perfect sunset view you won't even have to walk that far: The Boathouse, also at Instow, serves up pub grub just yards from the beach. Get a table by the window and you'll get the best sunset view south of the River Taw. I'm all in favour of the quirky and the interesting and those who seek it out will be rewarded when they visit The Old Smithy at Welcome. Good food, nice people, unique atmosphere. For river views grab an outside seat at The River Bank in Bideford and enjoy a breath of fresh air, with equally enjoyable food. For more places to eat and drink check out our fab free local foodie mag Devon Food. You'll find it all over the place.

I'll be crucified if I don't mention one of the things that Devon is famous for - the humble cream tea. You'll get one almost everywhere you go but few places can beat Watersmeet for atmosphere, location and the genteel clinking of tea cups. At the National Trust Cafe you'll be able to grab a pot of tea and a scone with some of that most amazing of treats - local strawberry jam with Devon clotted cream.

Of course it's not all about eating out. Searching for the best ingredients will give you a reward all of its own. And what is a meal if it's without an adventure of some description? You don't even have to go searching for mussels, clams and samphire - although it's fun if you do.

Farmers' markets happen regularly in village halls, on quaysides and on the streets of our towns and villages. It's one of the best ways you can support the local economy at the same time as pick up some quality food at the same time. You might not be able to pick up a perfectly straight cucumber or a spud without mud but I suppose that's the point. Crack an egg and see how golden that yolk is. I rest my case!

North Devon's pannier markets are equally good place to pick up the provisions. They are remarkable and, thankfully, are enjoying somewhat of a revival as we discover the benefits of shopping and eating locally. This is where you'll find specialist stalls selling olives and sun dried tomatoes side by side with traditional cheese makers, fishmongers and local growers. If you're lucky you may even come across a local farmer selling a few of his surplus cabbages or cauliflowers, or perhaps some home-baked cakes. It's the original farmers' market and it's a sure fire method of getting what's truly fresh and in season. For those of us used to gleaming aisles of perfect vegetables it might seem an odd way to get the groceries but it's the way it's always been done here. You enjoy a chat, exchange a few coins, and both go home happy. I love that you can still do it here. There are pannier markets at South Molton, Barnstaple, Torrington and Bideford.

For dates and days and those nearest where you're staying, click here

In The Camper Van Cookbook I wrote about a game invented for those of us who tour the countryside. It is called roadside roulette and it was inspired the roadside stalls of North Devon. In the summer time you'll find all kinds of home-grown and home cooked stuff at the side of the road from the locals' allotments, gardens and farms. You'll be surprised what's on offer. Of course they are nothing new but they are another way to get fresh fruit and vegetables straight out of the earth. They taste better too and will probably be cheaper than those you buy elsewhere.
Anyway, the idea of the game is to stop at the first one that you find and cook with whatever you find. Choose carefully. In Hartland there is one that sells nothing but home made jam and hand knitted gloves. Try explaining that to the children at tea time!

I hope that your visit to North Devon will reward you with fine food and a very warm welcome. I've only mentioned those places that I know but of course there's so much more here and all kinds of hidden gems waiting for your approval. All you have to do is find them. Bon appétit!